1964 Buick Skylark 1964 Buick Skylark - SURVIVOR - GM A Body, Chevelle, Lemans, Cutlass, GTO, GS

Description

1964 Buick Skylark  - NO RESERVE!!!
**Let me start by saying...
The market has gone absolutely APE SHIT asking price wise.  I'm reshuffling my fleet and
want to see the car go to a good home.  This listing is a FAIR chance for someone to get into the classic world without asking a left nut and your first born or spend 2 years working on it before actually getting to enjoy it.  I'm asking ,500 or best offer.**
An offering out of my personal fleet.  This is not a car dragged out of the woods, washed off, and listed as a
survivor to make a buck
.
I've owned the car about 8 years and "Uncle Buck" has been my old faithful cruiser.  Buck has never left me stranded, overheated on me, or otherwise left me looking foolish.
The little Buick 300 motor is healthy with the typical BUICK oil pressure readings warmed up (Buick guys know this means low hahahaha).  No smoke, knocks, or strange noises otherwise.  The transmission is a 1964 Buick Switchpitch two speed transmission (
Buick's
version of the
Power glide
) and goes into all gears and operates as it should.  Lighting works as it should (brake lights, tail lights, head lights, reverse lights).  I'm a wiring "whore" (see pics) so the headlights have been rewired to run through relays powered by direct battery power.  The alternator, starter, and battery (relocated to the truck) have all been upgraded with zero gauge and 2 gauge wire.  No rat nest wiring in this ride.
The floorboards and trunk are SOLID!!!  I repeat...SOLID!!! The previous owner replaced the trunk pans (I would of done it better) and the floor pans...so ZERO rot in this area (see pics).  I also replaced the rusted areas in the rear quarter panels, front fenders, and wheel arches (as best as possible) with a patch panels and a skim coat of short haired fiberglass filer in anticipation for final bodywork.  there
ARE NO REPOP
replacement panels from AMD or the other aftermarket sheet metal molders for 64 or 65's which is why most have rusted into the earth by now.  You either have to find a donor car and cut it up...or MAKE THEM...like I did.  Anyway, she's got a tiny bit of rust and mud left...but this car was always meant to be a driver / cruiser for me and my family...which is has done a great job of over the last eight years.  I
f you've made it this far...your interested lol...so h
ere is what I've PERSONALLY done to the car to get it to my standards:
Work Performed
Suspension:
Rebuilt Upper and Lower control with new bushings, center arms, and ball joints. Control arms swapped for Chevy style upper and lower style from a 1972 Chevelle.  Buick had a one off 1964 style of control arms which are impossible to find.  The 72 Chevelle uppper and lower arms will be easy to find parts if it ever needs to be rebuilt.
Replaced front shocks with new ones.
Replaced inner and
outer
control arms and control arm couplers.
Replaced rear control arm bushings.
Boxed lower control arms (Popular A-body mod for the flimsy stock arms).
Replaced rear shocks.
Brakes:
CPP front disc brake conversion kit installed (New calipers, soft lines, rotors, bearings, pads...spindles reused after R&R).  Car came stock four wheel drums which isn't really all that safe in 2021 with those wild Prius owners cutting in and out of traffic ; 0   Brakes amazingly now.
Rear brakes done (new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders).
EVERY...and I mean EVERY...soft and hard line was replaced while doing the brakes.  No fears of seeing the dreaded drip drip pool on your way to the cruise in.  Hard brakes lines are often a neglected area on these old hot rods.  They are done on this one.
New Disc/Drum master cylinder installed.
New CPP Disc/Drum proportioning valve and warning light installed.  The red warning light is installed in 3 gauge pod cluster over the transmission hump.  in 1964 Buick didn't thing a brake warning lamp was necessary hahahaha.  Unacceptable for me so...I installed one.
New 9" Delco Moraine brake booster installed.  If you got big block Buick a 12" one will not clear the valve covers of a 455.  Didn't want the
hassle
of this if I did go 455 so I went 9".  Plenty of stopping power with the 9" booster.  If you stab it...it WILL throw you through the windshield lol  If you go 455...you will be able to plop that beast in there and not spend 2 hour cursing at the end because the GOT DAMM valve covers wont clear (Been there done that).
Chassis:
Front floor pans replaced by previous owner.  He did a pretty descent job.  I cleaned them, epoxy sealed the weld joints, and rust encapsulated them to complete his repair properly.  Unsealed joints = rust and rot returning.
Rear floor pan section rot removed and patched with the same treatment as the front.
Trunk floor repair.  Previous owner welded in sheet steel.  I would have liked the floor sheets to have been bead rolled for rigidity...but didn't warrant removal of his repair as the metal was good and it wouldn't justify the time spent cutting it out and welding good metal over good metal.  The trunk metal is plenty strong with the new gas tank braces.
Undercoated the underside of floor boards, trunk, and frame rails (see videos below).
As you can tell from the pics,  the battery is relocated to the trunk.  I have EXTENSIVELY went through the wiring on this car to make it trouble free and most important...NOT A FIRE HAZARD!!!  The headlights are wired through 2 relays for the Headlights, 1 relay for the electric fan.  Since the battery is in the trunk I have wired
TWO
12V positive studs in the engine bay (one for 12V ignition one and one for 12V constant) as power taps for future electronics.  The Battery cut off switch in the trunk is wired NHRA compliant and will kill the car
RUNNING
if you throw the switch (per the rule book).  To complete...a push/pull rod will need to be installed to the disconnect switch through the bumper.  I wasn't tracking the car so I left it as is.
Fuel System:
New gas tank installed
New sending unit and sending unit wire.
3/8" hard fuel line ran from sending unit to fuel pump.  Stock line was 5/16" and I was planning for a big block buick or a LS in the future so...that part is done
.
New fuel Pump installed.
Still to Do / Issues:
Turn signal switch.  It went out earlier this year and admittedly...I've been to lazy to replace it.  Got a few other things I'm working on and it's an easy enough job for the NEW owner ; )
Car didn't have a wiper motor installed when I purchased it.  I never drive in the rain so I never installed one.  If you want to drive in rain...install the motor wire it up...and wipe to your hearts content.
Videos
1964 Buick Skylark - Walk Around
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1964 Buick Skylark - Driving
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Terms & Conditions
This is about as accurate an assessment I can give on the car during my ownership.  I have a TON of additional pics of the car during the build process as proof of work done.
Title is a clean Virginia title
IN MY NAME
.  I do deals all the time and HATE sketchy title paperwork.  No issues here.  For you out of state fellas, check with your DMV to make sure you get exactly what you need to title and register in your state.  VA only requires a signed title and bill of sale.
This is an RESPONSIBLE ADULT auction.  You are welcome to check the car out in person. Send me a message and we can set up a date and time.  If you need permission from your lady friend, cousin Jerry, or your Pastor...get it BEFORE YOU BID!!!!  Please, PLEASE, PLEASE...
NO DEADBEATS BIDDERS!!!!
Good luck yall,
Average Joe